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An unexpected summer in the Arctic: camping in Norway

Words & Photography by

Gabriella Morton

10 Jun 2019
Travel

One month, no phone, no accommodation, no showers and no takeout. Just a helluva gorgeous country with endless hidden gems to discover. With time in our favour, we were able to explore these gems to their full potential. It turns out that taking advice from your friends, mums, colleagues and neighbours is highly valuable… and with that our journey from Kristiansand to Andøya began. This photo essay highlights everything I never expected.


 

Horse-yak-norway1.jpg

I met this unlikely family made up of a yak, horse, and two ponies in Nærøyfjord, on the first day of our adventure. They were a friendly bunch but we had to part ways as we were enroute to find a campsite before dark. By morning the animals had somehow walked all the way around to the other side of the fjord to find us. They surrounded our tent like personal security guards and only asked for a lick of our breakfast burritos in return.

Lofoten-islands-wildflower-blooms.jpg

Although I would have enjoyed watching the aurora dance over a Norwegian winter, spending the European summer in Norway afforded us many unexpected surprises. The unorthodox shoulder season meant less tourists, and our timing was in sync with the wildflower blooms of the Lofoten Islands. The midnight sun also treated us to a few extra hours of daylight for exploring.

Norway-berries-by-the-lake.jpg

Admittedly, of all places in the world, I never imagined I’d be hand picking wild berries for breakfast in Norway. Raspberries and strawberries were found in abundance by the lakeside in Southern Norway and although they were a third of the size of the genetically modified ones found at the supermarket, they held double the flavour.

Camping Norway.jpg

The diversity of options for freedom camping in Norway blew my mind. This photo was taken in Andøya where we had rugged mountain as a backdrop and wild arctic coast at the front. But as with every story, there is always a downside; ours came in the form of cooking inconveniences. At one point we were rained in for seven days straight which meant we couldn't cook at all. The option of a campfire was instantly ruled out due to damp timber, and our backup outdoor gas stove proved difficult to keep alight in the wild winds.

exploring-norway.jpg

Regardless of the forecast, it was actually incredibly beneficial to go out and explore rather than feel helplessly trapped in our tent. Packing enough dry foods and energy snacks was crucial to keep us going for the physically demanding few days in Kvalvika, Lofoten. Oh boy were we looking forward to a hot meal.

Norway-glass-lake.jpg

I genuinely used to think that these perfect mirror lake reflections were all just the wonders of Photoshop. However, within the first three hours of arriving in Norway I had witnessed one for myself. In fact, almost every morning that it wasn’t raining I was lucky enough to wake up to this tranquil oasis.

Cafe Norway.jpg

Other than unavoidable petrol and road toll costs, we didn’t spend a single dollar in Norway as we brought all our long shelf life food from Germany to cook on a camp stove. Travel doesn’t have to cost you your life savings. It may be less glamorous, but your stories won't be identical to every other tourist on a cruise ship.

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